Walking Catalonia

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I took the one less traveled by, and that has made the difference. (Robert Frost – The road not taken)

Wildlife Walk 1

VALLTER 2000 – PORTELLA DE MANTET – PIC DE LA DONA - PORTELLA DE MANTET – VALLTER 2000

• Starting and finishing point: VALLTER 2000 SKI STATION.
• Access: Either from Girona via the C-66 and C-26, or from Barcelona via the C-17 and C-26 head for Camprodon. From here carry on up the valley through Setcases (10 km) and on to the ski station (10 km more) at the end of the road.
• Distance: 5.5 km/3hr 30min.
• Overall height gained: 640 m.
• Equipment: boots or stout shoes; water, hat, suncream, long-sleeved shirt, waterproof.
• Difficulty: moderate; an alpine route with a climb of over 600 m. However, the climb is steady and suitable for the average walker. No water and can be quiet hot.
• Waymarking: None.
• Map: Puigmal-Núria or Costabona, Edicions Alpina. 1:25 000, www.editorialalpina.com.
• Observations: Afternoon storms in the summer are probably the biggest problem; too much snow outside the period June-October. Walking times do not include stops for observing wildlife.
• Recommended time of year: July-August for wildlife.

High mountain route providing good views of alpine flora and fauna with the minimum of effort

Route description

Once at the last parking area at Vallter ski station (2.150m), pick up the path behind the main buildings and take the broad path NE up and along the right bank of a gully. After 350m, the gully narrows, becoming rockier, above all on the left bank (1). Around 250m further on, drop down to cross the gully, ignoring a path that heads off up to the right and continue up the same gully, now on its left bank. When the path splits, keep right for a short sharp climb to Portella de Mantet (2) (2.390m) (1 km; 40 min). From here, the path heading up westwards is obvious as it loops up to a small rocky coll. From here it straightens up (NW) and climbs to the summit of Pic de la Dona (2.704m) (1.8 km; 1hr 20 min). From the top, take the rocky ridge running eastwards, with a small cliff (3) on the north side; continue along this ridge along a poorly marked path and when you reach the first trees, cut down to your right to reach the valley bottom (4), loosing as little altitude as possible (3 km 2 hr). Once in the valley bottom, pick up the goat (isard, to be precise) trails eastward along the mountain on the other side of the valley bottom passing under white cliffs (5) to the north. Continue south-east without loosing altitude and cross a dry gully (6), and then take the path that climbs up Coma de la Portella and back to Portella de Mantet (7) (4.5 km; 3 hr). Return to Vallter (5.5 km; 3 hr 30 min).

Description of flora and fauna

1. A good place for 5 species of saxifrage: the robust water saxifrage (Saxifraga aquatica) with its feet in the water, and nearby but growing on water-dampened stones, the graceful starry saxifrage (S. stellaris), each petal with 2 yellow marks at its base. The rocks on the left banks have lifelong saxifrage (S. paniculata), with flowers in drooping flower heads, and mossy (S. bryoides) and white mossy (S. moschata) saxifrages, two cushion-forming species, the former with yellow spots at the base of the petals and pointed leaves; the latter with no yellow spots and more rounded leaves. Other flowers here include Campanula scheuchzeri, Leucanthemopsis alpina, Senecio leucophyllus with its grey leaves and yellow flowers, appearing further up the gully in large stands on eroded terrain, and brilliant pink clumps of maiden pink (Dianthus deltoides).
2. At La Portella, look on the north face for northern wheatear, water pipits, groups of citril finches and, with luck, rock thrush. The pastures hold many small flowers: yellow flowers of yellow milk-vetch (Oxytropis campestris), round blue flowers of globe-headed rampion (Phyteuma hemisphaericum), dwarf sheep's-bit (Jasione crispa), like the preceding species but with sky-blue flowers, the intense blue of the flowers of snow gentian (Gentiana nivalis), and the pink and yellow flowers of alpine aster (Aster alpinus). The dark stains of vegetation turn out to be ling (Calluna vulgaris); also look for the small yellow wood-rush (Luzula lutea) with basal leaves that turn reddish/brown with time, and the equally small Highland rush (Juncus trifidus), normally with three flowers halfway up the stem.
3. On the shadiest ledges of the cliff look (with care!) for the robust plants of geranium-like saxifrage (S. geranioides), with 2-cm broad leaves, and Saxifraga pentadactylis, with sticky leaves.
4. Groups of isard frequent this valley in July; you may also hear the high-pitched whistles of the local marmots.
5. Just above the path, the cracks in the cliff hold parsley fern (Cryptogramma crispa), looking uncannily like parsley.
6. In the dry stream bed flower alpine poppy (Papaver alpinum), a small orange/yellow-coloured poppy, the small white flowers of chamois cress (Pritzelago alpina) and the equally small purple flowers (with an orange centre) of alpine toadflax (Linaria alpina).
7. At La Portella many high-level butterflies are on the wing in high summer: 1. Many Erebia, medium-sized, largely brown in colour with varying sized orange patches: Lefèbvre's (E. lefebvrei), Piedmont (E. meolans), Spanish brassy (E. hispana), silky (E. gorge) and mountain (E. epiphron) ringlets; 2. small blues, Eros blue (Polyommatus eros), males brilliant sky blue above, and Glandon blue (Agriades glandon), males blue grey above. 3. Two medium-sized fritillaries: mountain (Boloria napaea) and shepherd's (B. pales) fritillaries, both brilliant orange above with fine black markings. The underside markings of the former tend to be less evident; also, fresh female mountain fritillaries often have greenish tones on the upper forewing. Also the subsp. debilis of Marsh Fritillary (Euphydryas aurinia subsp. debilis), much darker above and with a row of spots on the rear edge of the hindwing.

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Other walks:

• Cultural Walk 1 - OIX – LA MARE DE DÉU DE LES ESCALES - SALT DEL LIBERALS – OIX
• Cultural Walk 2 - OIX – SANTA BÁRBARA DE PRUNERES – OIX